Painted Side Table Step By Step

This was a fairly simple project. It took a couple of hours. Drying time plus I did run into a problem. Keep reading and I’ll let you know what it was and how I fixed it.

*These photos aren’t that great. I did this in my basement where there is virtually no natural light*




First I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper. Removing most of the shine and roughing up the surface a little. Your paint will adhere better. This is an old piece. So I made sure to be careful not to overdo it. The wood is really soft.







You don’t have to go nuts getting every single nook and cranny. Depending on the piece, the details can be difficult to get at.








After sanding I used a vacuum, getting as much of the dust off as I could. I’ve used tac cloth in the past. It’s okay but after a few swipes you’re basically just pushing the dust around. It also leaves a tacky residue on your hands. I don’t like that 😦







Now I can see some places that I’ve missed and went back over with sand paper.






I wiped it down with a dry cloth just to make sure I got most of the dust. Then I wiped it again with a mixture of water, a little dish soap and a splash of vinegar. I wiped a third time with just plain water.










I let it dry for a bit. Twenty minutes or so.







                                   Then it was ready to prime and paint!




This is my FAVORITE angled brush. It works great on everything!




Next I primed. This is just as important as the sanding. It really helps your paint to adhere properly.









Working in small sections. Slightly overlapping so that it dries evenly.






20190417_1334504095576884350777583.jpgHere’s where my problem happened. As it dried I noticed I was getting quite a bit of bleeding. Meaning there were pink and brown spots showing through the paint pretty much everywhere. A lot of times with older furniture the tannins really seep through. It doesn’t matter how many coats of paint you put on there. It will still come through. So…what to do? Basically you have to block it with a sealer. An oil based primer would’ve been better for this piece but I didn’t have any. So in this case I used what I had and it didn’t work. I don’t always get bleeding but you never know until you put the paint on how it’s going to act.





I did a light sand with 220 grit sandpaper before I applied a thin layer of this fast drying poly and used a fan to speed up the process even more. I was able to paint in less that 30 minutes. Another light, I mean light sand with 220 grit sandpaper.20190418_1625503827582830600392814.jpg









Finally….on to the BEST part! I like to make my own chalk paint. I mixed (in my little paint mug) three parts latex paint, one part water and about two tablespoons of baking soda to give it that chalky texture. I like to use latex paint in either eggshell or a satin finish. You can’t beat the durability and you don’t have to seal it like you do with chalk paint and the cost. Chalk paint is expensive.





This is after two coats of paint with a light sand (220 grit) in between. Don’t mind all the mess. At this point I was just happy that the poly worked that I didn’t care…lol







The final step is to lightly distress. So, you just want to remove paint in areas that you think would naturally be worn down like corners and edges. I used 80 grit sandpaper to remove some of the paint then smoothed with 220 grit.




It turned out great! I kept the original wooden knobs.






Happy painting & Thanks for reading!

2 thoughts on “Painted Side Table Step By Step

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